Elllora and Ajanta

The caves of Ellora and Ajanta are unbelievable. They are stone 'caves' that were hand carved by thousands of workers over hundreds of years. These caves are actually groupings of temples and monasteries. The Ajanta caves are Buddhist while Ellora are Buddhist, Hindu and Jain. The 26 caves in Ajanta had many carvings and sculptures as well as paintings depicting the life of the Buddha. The workers and monks used simple hammers and chisels to create their amazing designs. It's hard to imagine the sheer volume of rock that must of been taken from the sites.

In the picture is the Hindu temple Kahlais, at the Ellora caves. This temple is carved from one piece of rock without the use of scaffolding. They started from the top and worked their way down.

Leaving for the Caves

Tomorrow morning I set off for the caves of Ellora and Ajanta. They're a six hour drive from here. Jennie and I will stay there for three nights relaxing before the long trek home. Aurangabad to Mumbai to NYC to Cincinnati to Indianapolis to Bloomington. I look forward to seeing the caves but am more excited to see you all!

President Obama

My friend Jess and I made t-shirts for the Obama party last night. All of India is thrilled with the new president. He's on the cover of every paper and all over the news. Can't wait to come home!

Ghandi Cap

I have been on the hunt for a Ghandi cap and have been asking everyone where to get one since I got here. I'm sure you can picture this cap. It's the white cloth cap Ghandi used to wear...also like a Steak 'n Shake hat. No one has been able to tell me where to get one. We set off Friday afternoon in a rickshaw determinened to find one.

We asked the rickshaw driver to take us to a shop that sold them. He drove us across town to a shop that of course did not. So we asked the shop owner where to go. In broken english he told us to go to some shop that didn't exist so we asked someone else. He drew a map that took us to another shop that sold hardware. We asked the man selling hankerchiefs, he pointed across the street. They sold t shirts. We stopped someone on the street but he laughed and kept walking. What makes this scenerio even more comical is that everyone walking around this neighborhood was wearing one! It was like a MadTV skit!

We were ready to take a rickshaw back to Model Colony when we spotted another shop that looked promising. We hit the jack pot. Tons of Ghandi hats for me and Doti's for my friend. We easily struck up a conversation with the shop merchant (who looked like Ghandi himself!). He was so friendly and of course asked us 'And you are from?'. We told him and he said his daughter and the rest of his family were living in Dallas! He had even visited for six months in 1997.

This is a typical Indian experience where anything is possible if you are willing to keep asking the question.

A Diwali Birthday

As we were leaving Pune for Mysore the city was really gearing up for the big holiday. Lots of light and lanterns were already going up all around the neighborhood. I figured that by the time the holiday came people would be dancing for joy in the streets. Mysore proved to be more diverse than Pune - meaning that there are more Muslims and Christians. Consequently the celebration was a bit more subdued. We had also heard that the state of the economy in India has really put a damper on the festivities this year. Regardless, the fireworks were still going off for hours (and I mean hours) last night and the night before and the one before that.

For my birthday, which was on Diwali eve, we shopped at the large open air market which was bustling with people. All the hindus getting ready for their big family events. The aisles were mobbed! People stepping over each other trying to get to the items they wanted. I tried to take pictures but ended up walking around with my mouth open most of the time.

After the market we took a rickshaw to an Auyurvedic clinic near our hotel and got a scalp treatment/facial massage/herbal pack. It felt great and was a fun experience too. Lots of smell good oil were rubbed all over my scalp and face. Then a man massaged my entire head. I admit I was a little worried he would rub all my hair off my head. After the massage was the steam and herbal pack. We all left refreshed but pretty oily! Indians believe oils are good for you so they're not grossed out by them like we are.

For the birthday dinner we all got dressed up and went to what was probably one of the nicest restaurants in Mysore. In Pune I had purchased and Indian Kurta (traditional men's dress) so I got to try our my new wears. The food was delicious and we had lots of laughs.

The days seemed pretty magical. It was easy to feel that way being in such a magical place.

Diwali

October 28th is Diwali so the institute is closed for the week for celebration. This holiday is a big one. It's like our Christmas. There are many stories behind the meaning of Diwali. Most everyone agrees that it is a "Festival of Lights" where the lights or lamps signify victory of good over the evil within every human being.

My new friends and I are leaving this afternoon for Bangelore and then on to Mysore for the rest of the week. I have heard that Mysore is a phenomenally beautiful city and I can't wait to see what it's like all dressed up for the holiday. I am also relieved to leave the noises of Pune.

Love Fest

Almost the entire trip I have been spending time with three new friends. Two of them I knew from teacher trainings, one more than the other. And the third I hadn't met before coming to India. Instantly we all hit it off and have been virtually inseparable. Going on day trips, shopping, practicing, eating and eating and eating.

The trip to Pune, especially for the first time, is turning out to be more than just about the yoga. It's about the food, the smells, the colors, the people, and the long trip here. And for me the trip is also turning out to be about these great new friendships. I was so nervous to come here. Terrified about the long flight and what I would find when the plane landed but it's as if the friendships are here to evaporate the fears. I'm relieved to say they have evaporated.

backbend week

I am only taking class with Geeta on Friday night but I had heard from all the ladies that she was teaching backbends all week. I have been grumbling that Prashant hasn't been doing backbends. Until today. Oh my. First of all we did Dwi Pada Viparita Dandasana on the chair, in many variations, for over an hour. Then moved on to ropes and free standing back arches, as he called them. As I was leaving the hall a new friend from London said "Well, I used to like Ustrasana".

Geeta had taught backbends the night before and to say the class was challenging is probably just being polite. Then right away this morning more bending over backward. And the tough thing about Prashant's class is that all awhile I am bending myself over the chair he is telling us to use 'mind, body, breath on mind, body, breath'. I was working very hard to be present with my breath too see the effects it had on my body. This work was some how more exhausting compared to the work I had done before. Consequently, I wanted to jump out of the chair. It didn't help that I was starved and had to work to keep my mind from thinking about scrambled eggs with cheese and tomatoes!

Hello

Last Sunday we went to the movies. I bet you are thinking, big deal. Well, let me tell you it was an event not to be missed. After spending hours trying to figure out which film was subtitled and how to purchase tickets on line with my over seas credit card I finally decided to show up 1.5 hrs early just to make sure we got seats. The seats have number assignments, like when you go to see a play in the states. And there is a box office for Ladies and one for Men. Who knows why. Guess they are trying to keep men and women from sitting together? Doesn't work from what I saw.

The theater itself was the most amazing space. Enormous. And, air conditioned! The seats were roomy and comfortable. Plenty of space for people to pass in front of you to get to their seats. I couldn't believe my eyes when I walked in. And as soon as we sat down the movie started, even though the lights were still up and the theater was only half full. Lights went down when credits were done rolling.

We ended up going to a Bollywood film called "Hello". It was in Hindi. No subtitles. I was only getting the gist of it even though we had an Indian friend with us who was translating some. Basically there was no way to categorize this film. Because there was romance, comedy, violence, a car chase, philosophical message, social commentary...all with tons of products placement. Oh, and of course, dancing and singing to disco music. It was over the top. I loved every minute of it and just couldn't eat enough of the overly salty popcorn. I went back for seconds.

Here's a link to the movie page. ...http://www.hellothefilm.com/

Aparigraha

In the States many teachers stress using the edge of your mat to align your body, or even the edges of the room. There is absolutely no discussion of this at the Institute. The room isn't square for one thing. Consequently peoples mats are definitely not square to the room. In Geeta's classes she isn't saying 'all get two blankets, a block and a strap for the next pose'. She says do the pose and take what you need. Perhaps the difference is the lack of props at the Institute or is it something else? This got me thinking. Are we creating poses out of stacks of props rather than creating the shape of the pose and then using the necessary props? Are we taking more than we need? They seem to be teaching from a place that is not from inside the box. I find it incredibly refreshing.

The caves

Thursday was a holiday here so the institute was closed. Some friends and I decided to get out of the city and go visit the caves in Karla and Bhaja. Karla was our first stop. There were seven of us piled into the mini-van. Eight including the driver. And we headed out of town and toward the caves. Driving around India is non-stop entertainment. People are always blowing their horn and speeding. We made it to the caves in one piece and started climbing the many many steps up to the cave and temple. According to my guide book this is a rock cut Buddhist chaitya hall, is the largest in the country, and dates from the first century AD.

Although Karla was clearly more popular I liked our second stop best. Bhaja. This group of 18 caves is the oldest in the country dating from the first century BC. Most of the caves are small cells with stone bed used by the devotees. There were places in the caves for dinning, bathing, worship and of course, meditation. The views were spectacular and so was the heat. Can't figure out how to post more than one picture or I'd show one of these caves as well. Who knows...

"Home"

I am living in the third floor apartment of the home of Arwind and Anjuli Deo. They are an older retired couple who rent to yoga students to make more money. They are both very sweet and generous. I have asked Anjuli if she would cook a few meals for me every week so I don't have to eat at restaurants all the time. (I have a small kitchenette in my place but who wants to rely on my bumb cooking when I can eat delicious homemade Indian food!) The Deo's are teaching me about Indian table manners and we all have a laugh to see my struggles to keep the food on the plate. They easily scoop up the food with their fingers while I am sliding it around the plate and sometimes over the edge!

View from my balcony...

Star Struck

Today during practice I realized that half the students in the hall had gathered over by Mr. Iyengar. He was commenting on someone's pose. Pointing out different places in his ankles that needed attention in standing poses. It was very fun to see him reclining in his Supta Padangusthasana (that's a pose for you non yoga types) while teaching to this man. Getting to see Guruji (as he's called) up close during his practice is a chance of a life time. Even at 90 years old he is doing things with his body that I can only wish to do. Even his skin is vibrant and full of life.

I am starting to get used to seeing Mr. Iyengar walking around the institute and the practice hall. The first time I spotted him I swallowed my breath and kept it there until after he left the room. I never know what to do when he's around. Act like myself? Get down and touch his feet? Jump up and bow? Be casual? Offer a hand shake? I know he really could care less what I do. He has people bending down to touch his feet all day everyday.

Feet

Feet are a very big deal here. There are many rules about what to do with them – and shoes. You shouldn't wear your shoes inside but you can walk barefoot through the dirty city and walk inside. It's impolite to show the sole of your foot to someone or to touch your feet to someone else's. But it's considered customary and polite to touch the top of someone's feet – especially your elders or Gurus. Here are my feet in India... They basically look the same on this side of the world.

Prashant

Everyone is all a flitter about Prashant Iyengar. We spend a lot of time discussing his classes. His teaching style is very different from Geeta's. He does not spend very much time discussing alignment, if at all. Mind, Body, Breath. These are his talking points. He is saying that we are always doing doing by focusing so much on making adjustmnets. So he is challenging us to make the shape of the pose, tend to the mind and then use the breath to stay and maintain. It's the maintaining that is the biggest challenge for me. When I told a fellow yogi about my challenge yesterday, in passing he said, it's just insecurity. He was right. I feel insecure and constantly adjust because I there's always the chance that I could find a better pose. It's similar to our new cable at home. Because there are so many hundreds of channels I keep flipping through because the next one could be better than the one before it.

brooms and cows

There are people whose job it is to sweep door steps, driveways and sidewalks. They spend hours every day gathering leaves, sticks, etc using homemade brooms. It seems to create a sense of order in this chaotic land. The street where I live might be swept clean after the rain but who is cleaning up the large pile of garbage down the street where the wild pigs/dogs/cows are grazing. Everything bumps up against everything else here. We are all together. Know one seems to be be upset about the lack of space and quiet. Everyone waits patiently. I cannot understand the language but just from the body language Indians are incredibly patient. I on the other hand am not as patient. Luckily I don't have to be anywhere at a certain time except for the classes at the institute.